Price based on lowest available cruise only fare for double occupancy. Subject to change at any time.
Unwind in stylish accommodations, including Concierge Class and our spa-inspired AquaClass® with exclusive dining at Blu. And, the ultimate in luxury, exclusive sanctuary, The Retreat® which includes private restaurant dining and 24/7 lounge. Enjoy globally-inspired cuisine in distinctive restaurants with menus crafted by our Michelin-starred chef. Make a toast in the Passport Bar, Martini Bar, or World Class Bar. Enjoy endless ocean views, catch some sun, and play your favourite outdoor games on a ½ acre of real grass at The Lawn Club. You'll feel refreshed in The Spa, which features soothing treatments to invigorate the senses. Savour an incredible five-course meal designed by our Global Culinary Ambassador, Chef Daniel Boulud. Onboard experiences also include shopping at the finest boutiques and family-fun activities, including Hot Glass classes and theatrical events. Set sail and discover a whole new level of rest and relaxation.
Celebrity Eclipse is sailing with Starlink - the world's most advanced broadband satellite internet - to bring you high-speed connectivity for a better onboard experience.
Cruise ID: 35420
Hot Glass Show
Don't just appreciate art, experience it. Witness the incredible, gorgeous art of glass-blowing with intimate live demonstrations. Watch and learn from professional glass-blowers in this one-of-a-kind exhibition on Celebrity Solstice, Celebrity Equinox, and Celebrity Eclipse.
The Lawn Club
A freshly manicured lawn on the highest deck. Enjoy casual outdoor activities in a decidedly Country Club atmosphere, and let the grass between your toes take you places no cruise has gone before.
Celebrity iLounge
Featuring 26 Apple Macbook Pro workstations, with Apple products for sale. Classes on how to use Mac products and software are available on most sailings.
A service gratuity will be automatically applied to each guest's SeaPass® account on a daily basis for sailings*, excluding guests in Excluding Bookings.** Current amounts*** for the daily gratuity are listed below. The gratuities described above are distributed to the crew, such as dining, bar and culinary services staff, stateroom attendants and other hotel services teams, and others who work to enhance the overall cruise experience.
A 20% gratuity will be automatically added to spa and salon purchases and a 20% gratuity will also be automatically added to specialty dining, beverage, beverage package, room service and mini bar purchases.
Gratuities may be adjusted at the guest's discretion onboard at Guest Relations up until the morning of their departure.
* Guests sailing in group reservations should check with their group's leader or travel agent for details.
**Excluded Bookings include all staterooms booked either (i) at the All Included rate (formerly Always Included on or before October 4, 2023); or (ii) in the Retreat or AquaClass stateroom category from July 14, 2022, to October 4, 2023. Stateroom and restaurant service gratuities, and a 20% beverage package gratuity, are included in the fare of all guests in an Excluded Booking.
***Gratuity amounts are subject to change.
Date | Time | Price * | Booking |
---|---|---|---|
19 September 2025 | 18:00 | €2,073 | Call us to book |
10 October 2025 | 18:00 | €1,143 | Call us to book |
* Price based on lowest available cruise only fare for double occupancy. Subject to change at any time.
Take your Celebrity vacation to new heights in a Sky Suite. Be welcomed with a bottle of sparkling wine and enjoy the luxury of your butler throughout your stay. Plus enjoy exclusive access to dining and lounge areas reserved only for guests of The Retreat. Accessible Sky Suites available.
Perfectly designed Sky Suites offer a blend of expansive views and intimate luxury. These large suites feature our signature Cashmere™ Mattress with eXhale® bedding and a spacious, private veranda.
Be welcomed with a bottle of sparkling wine and enjoy the luxury of your butler throughout your stay. Plus, enjoy access to Luminae and The Retreat Lounge, exclusive for guests of The Retreat.
Highlights
*Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed.
Exclusive services and amenities
The best amenities, all included.*
As a guest of The Retreat, you'll also enjoy a long list of thoughtfully curated amenities that start with premium drinks and premium Wi-Fi, in addition to a private restaurant and exclusive lounge.
Premium Drinks | Enjoy your favorite beverages throughout the ship. Whether dining in our restaurants, out exploring, or relaxing by the pool.
Premium Wi-Fi | Always stay connected, no matter where you are, with complimentary unlimited Wi-Fi.
*Special fares and MoveUp upgrades from non-suite staterooms do not receive these amenities.
Services & amenities for Sky Suite guests
Intuitive Service
World-class cuisine
Thoughtfully curated amenities
Little details make a world of difference, and now our meticulously thought out Concierge Class staterooms are even better. Featuring new services, amenities, and exclusive events, step inside and discover a space that is so much more than a room—it's an experience. As a Concierge Class guest, your team of dedicated professionals will take care of all your vacation needs.
*Imagery of Revolutionized Celebrity Silhouette.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Solstice AquaClass guests enjoy a private veranda, Exhale® bedding, premium bathroom amenities, massaging showerhead and complimentary fitness classes. Plus, unlimited access to the Persian Garden, complimentary dining at Blu, and personal spa concierge.
Wellness is so fundamental to our philosophy, we offer AquaClass® staterooms for a fully immersive, next-level wellness experience. Elements are thoughtfully infused throughout your stateroom. Savour clean cuisine, including new healthy options, at your exclusive restaurant, Blu. Plus, you'll enjoy access to the Persian Garden, a spa concierge, a complimentary fitness pass, preferential rates on AquaClass spa packages, daily in-room bottled water service, healthy room-service menu options, and a yoga mat for use on board. We've thought of everything so that you can focus on nourishing your mind, body, and spirit.Available on Celebrity Eclipse, Celebrity Equinox, Celebrity Reflection, Celebrity Silhouette & Celebrity Solstice
Spa Benefits
Amenities
Dining
AquaClass Features
*Additional charges apply
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
Ample indoor and outdoor space come together to create your private sanctuary at sea. Relax on your spacious veranda and enjoy amenities that all contribute to your luxury experience. Your personal veranda lets you greet the day and enjoy fresh sea breezes.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
24-hour room service†
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Ocean View staterooms, the ideal place to unwind at sea. These perfectly indulgent spaces come furnished with Celebrity's eXhale® bedding featuring the luxury king sized* mattress and everything else a modern traveler needs.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Your escape at sea, Inside staterooms offer ample living space, including a sitting area and a flat screen TV. Each inside stateroom on board Celebrity includes world-class amenities. Prime Inside staterooms are well-appointed, personal retreats located in the most-desirable locations on the ship.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Your escape at sea, Inside staterooms offer ample living space, including a sitting area and a flat screen TV. Each inside stateroom on board Celebrity includes world-class amenities.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Expansive views make Ocean View staterooms the ideal place to unwind at sea. These perfectly indulgent spaces come furnished with Celebrity's eXhale® bedding featuring the luxury king sized* mattress and everything else a modern traveler needs. Prime Ocean View staterooms are well-appointed, personal retreats located in the most-desirable locations on the ship.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
With spaces fit for a king or queen, our Royal Suites deliver on style and comfort. Separate living, dining, and sleeping areas provide all the room you need to relax in luxury.
Unwind in a luxuriously large living area featuring floor to ceiling panoramic windows. The Royal Suite features our luxury Cashmere™ Mattress, a primary bathroom with a large soaking tub, a separate shower, a double sink vanity, and a spacious private veranda. No matter where you are in this suite, you'll enjoy stunning views of the sea, the way every royal should.
Highlights
*Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed.
Exclusive services and amenities
The best amenities, all included.*
As a guest of The Retreat, you'll also enjoy a long list of thoughtfully curated amenities that start with premium drinks and premium Wi-Fi, in addition to a private restaurant and exclusive lounge.
Premium Drinks | Enjoy your favorite beverages throughout the ship. Whether dining in our restaurants, out exploring, or relaxing by the pool.
Premium Wi-Fi | Always stay connected, no matter where you are, with complimentary unlimited Wi-Fi.
*Special fares and MoveUp upgrades from non-suite staterooms do not receive these amenities.
Services & amenities for Royal Suite guests
Intuitive Service
World-class cuisine
Thoughtfully curated amenities
Little details make a world of difference, and now our meticulously thought out Concierge Class staterooms are even better. Featuring services, amenities, and exclusive events, step inside and discover a space that is so much more than a room—it's an experience. As a Concierge Class guest, your team of dedicated professionals will take care of all your vacation needs.
*Imagery of Revolutionized Celebrity Silhouette.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Little details make a world of difference, and now our meticulously thought out Prime Concierge Class staterooms are even better. Prime Concierge staterooms are well-appointed, personal retreats located in the most-desirable locations on the ship. Featuring services, amenities, and exclusive events, step inside and discover a space that is so much more than a room—it's an experience. As a Concierge Class guest, your team of dedicated professionals will take care of all your vacation needs.
*Imagery of Revolutionized Celebrity Silhouette.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Ample indoor and outdoor space come together to create your private sanctuary at sea. Your personal veranda lets you greet the day, enjoy fresh sea breezes, and soak in breathtaking sunsets.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
By far the largest stateroom with a veranda - plenty of room for you and the family.
Ample indoor and outdoor space come together to create your private sanctuary at sea. Your personal veranda lets you greet the day, enjoy fresh sea breezes, and soak in breathtaking sunsets.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Your personal veranda lets you greet the day, enjoy fresh sea breezes, and soak in breathtaking sunsets.
Spacious staterooms located in the aft of the ship, each with its own private veranda to enjoy the beautiful sunsets. Sunset Veranda staterooms offer superb ocean views at the stern of the ship. Your personal veranda lets you greet the day, enjoy fresh sea breezes, and soak in breathtaking sunsets.
Ample indoor and outdoor space come together to create your private sanctuary at sea. Your personal veranda lets you greet the day, enjoy fresh sea breezes, and soak in breathtaking sunsets.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Ample indoor and outdoor space come together to create your private sanctuary at sea. Relax on your spacious veranda and enjoy amenities that all contribute to your luxury experience. Your personal veranda lets you greet the day and enjoy fresh sea breezes.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Ample indoor and outdoor space come together to create your private sanctuary at sea. Relax on your spacious veranda and enjoy amenities that all contribute to your luxury experience. Your personal veranda lets you greet the day and enjoy fresh sea breezes.
Prime Veranda staterooms are well-appointed, personal retreats located in the most-desirable locations on the ship.
Amenities
Stateroom Features
Services
Dining
*Additional charges apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
Take your Celebrity vacation to new heights in a Sky Suite. Be welcomed with a bottle of sparkling wine and enjoy the luxury of your butler throughout your stay. Plus enjoy exclusive access to dining and lounge areas reserved only for guests of The Retreat. Accessible Sky Suites available.
Perfectly designed Sky Suites offer a blend of expansive views and intimate luxury. These large suites feature our signature Cashmere™ Mattress with eXhale® bedding and a spacious, private veranda.
Be welcomed with a bottle of sparkling wine and enjoy the luxury of your butler throughout your stay. Plus, enjoy access to Luminae and The Retreat Lounge, exclusive for guests of The Retreat.
Highlights
*Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed.
The best amenities, all included.*
As a guest of The Retreat, you'll also enjoy a long list of thoughtfully curated amenities that start with premium drinks and premium Wi-Fi, in addition to a private restaurant and exclusive lounge.
Premium Drinks | Enjoy your favorite beverages throughout the ship. Whether dining in our restaurants, out exploring, or relaxing by the pool.
Premium Wi-Fi | Always stay connected, no matter where you are, with complimentary unlimited Wi-Fi.
*Special fares and MoveUp upgrades from non-suite staterooms do not receive these amenities.
Services & amenities for Sky Suite guests
Intuitive Service
World-class cuisine
Thoughtfully curated amenities
Solstice AquaClass guests enjoy a private veranda, Exhale® bedding, premium bathroom amenities, massaging showerhead and complimentary fitness classes. Plus, unlimited access to the Persian Garden, complimentary dining at Blu, and personal spa concierge.
Wellness is so fundamental to our philosophy, we offer AquaClass® staterooms for a fully immersive, next-level wellness experience. Prime AquaClass staterooms are well-appointed, personal retreats located in the most-desirable locations on the ship. Savour clean cuisine, including new healthy options, at your exclusive restaurant, Blu. Plus, you'll enjoy access to the Persian Garden, a spa concierge, a complimentary fitness pass, preferential rates on AquaClass spa packages, daily in-room bottled water service, healthy room-service menu options, and a yoga mat for use on board. We've thought of everything so that you can focus on nourishing your mind, body, and spirit.
Available on Celebrity Eclipse, Celebrity Equinox, Celebrity Reflection, Celebrity Silhouette & Celebrity Solstice
Spa Benefits
Amenities
Dining
AquaClass Features
*Additional charges apply
† $9.95 service fee and 20% gratuity may apply
**Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed
ALL EXCLUSIVE, ALL INCLUDED, WELLNESS-INSPIRED SUITES
Introducing our Aqua Sky Suites, which combine our well-being inspired AquaClass experience with exclusive spaces, services, and amenities of The Retreat® to leave you more renewed than ever. These suites feature a king-sized bed with exclusive eXhale® bedding and a spacious, private veranda. Spa-inspired elements are thoughtfully infused throughout, including eco-friendly bathroom products, on-demand wellness programming on your stateroom TV, yoga mats, in-stateroom fitness amenities, daily bottled water service, and an enhanced air filtration system—which you'll now find in all our staterooms.
Wellness is so fundamental to our philosophy, we've created a whole new way to nourish your mind and body. Aqua Sky Suites combine the best of our rejuvenating AquaClass® experience with the ultimate luxury of The Retreat®. These suites feature a king-sized** bed with exclusive eXhale® bedding and a spacious, private veranda. Spa-inspired elements are thoughtfully infused throughout, including eco-friendly bathroom products, yoga mats, in-stateroom fitness amenities, and daily bottled water service.
As an Aqua Sky Suite guest, you'll also enjoy a long list of thoughtfully curated amenities combining the best of AquaClass and access to The Retreat.
Highlights
The best amenities, all included.*
As a guest of The Retreat, you'll also enjoy a long list of thoughtfully curated amenities that start with premium drinks and premium Wi-Fi, in addition to a private restaurant and exclusive lounge.
Premium Drinks | Enjoy your favorite beverages throughout the ship. Whether dining in our restaurants, out exploring, or relaxing by the pool.
Premium Wi-Fi | Always stay connected, no matter where you are, with complimentary unlimited Wi-Fi.
*Special fares and MoveUp upgrades from non-suite staterooms do not receive these amenities.
Services & amenities for Aqua Sky Suite guests
Intuitive Service
World-class cuisine
Thoughtfully curated amenities
Unwind in modern spaces that will make you feel on top of the world. Relax in ultimate luxury on your private veranda. Lounge in the king-size Cashmere™ Mattress in your bedroom. Enjoy VIP treatment with your butler, expansive lounge areas and much more.
Our Penthouse Suites feature a primary bedroom, bathroom, dining area, guest bedroom and bathroom, terrace, and private hot tub. They even have an attentive butler on hand to ensure you never have to lift a finger during your vacation.
Unwind in modern spaces that will make you feel on top of the world. Relax in ultimate luxury on your private veranda. Lounge in the king-size Cashmere™ Mattress in your bedroom. Enjoy VIP treatment with your butler, expansive lounge areas and much more.
Highlights
*Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed.
Exclusive services and amenities
The best amenities, all included.*
As a guest of The Retreat, you'll also enjoy a long list of thoughtfully curated amenities that start with premium drinks and premium Wi-Fi, in addition to a private restaurant and exclusive lounge.
Premium Drinks | Enjoy your favorite beverages throughout the ship. Whether dining in our restaurants, out exploring, or relaxing by the pool.
Premium Wi-Fi | Always stay connected, no matter where you are, with complimentary unlimited Wi-Fi.
*Special fares and MoveUp upgrades from non-suite staterooms do not receive these amenities.
Services & amenities for Penthouse Suite guests
Intuitive Service
World-class cuisine
Thoughtfully curated amenities
It's time you got the Celebrity treatment. Your butler will assist you at every step and you'll receive exclusive restaurant and lounge access.
These two-room suites feature a large living area with floor to ceiling panoramic windows, private veranda, and a primary bedroom with a king-size bed featuring our signature eXhale® bedding and Cashmere™ Mattress
When you stay in a Celebrity Suite, you'll enjoy the luxury of a butler. This includes assistance with unpacking and packing. In-suite lunch and dinner service. Afternoon tea. Evening hors d'oeuvres and complimentary in-suite specialty coffees from Café al Bacio.
Highlights
*Bed as large or larger than average standard international king-size bed.
Exclusive services and amenities
The best amenities, all included.*
As a guest of The Retreat, you'll also enjoy a long list of thoughtfully curated amenities that start with premium drinks and premium Wi-Fi, in addition to a private restaurant and exclusive lounge.
Premium Drinks | Enjoy your favorite beverages throughout the ship. Whether dining in our restaurants, out exploring, or relaxing by the pool.
Premium Wi-Fi | Always stay connected, no matter where you are, with complimentary unlimited Wi-Fi.
*Special fares and MoveUp upgrades from non-suite staterooms do not receive these amenities.
Services & amenities for Celebrity Suite guests
Intuitive Service
World-class cuisine
Thoughtfully curated amenities
Day 1 Ravenna, Italy
A small, quiet, well-heeled city, Ravenna has brick palaces, cobblestone streets, magnificent monuments, and spectacular Byzantine mosaics. The high point in its civic history occurred in the 5th century, when Pope Honorious moved his court here from Rome. Gothic kings Odoacer and Theodoric ruled the city until it was conquered by the Byzantines in AD 540. Ravenna later fell under the sway of Venice, and then, inevitably, the Papal States.Because Ravenna spent much of its past looking east, its greatest art treasures show that Byzantine influence. Churches and tombs with the most unassuming exteriors contain within them walls covered with sumptuous mosaics. These beautifully preserved Byzantine mosaics put great emphasis on nature, which you can see in the delicate rendering of sky, earth, and animals. Outside Ravenna, the town of Classe hides even more mosaic gems.
Day 2 Zadar, Croatia
Dalmatia's capital for more than 1,000 years, Zadar is all too often passed over by travelers on their way to Split or Dubrovnik. What they miss out on is a city of more than 73,000 that is remarkably lovely and lively despite—and, in some measure, because of—its tumultuous history. The Old Town, separated from the rest of the city on a peninsula some 4 km (2½ miles) long and just 1,640 feet wide, is bustling and beautiful: the marble pedestrian streets are replete with Roman ruins, medieval churches, palaces, museums, archives, and libraries. Parts of the new town are comparatively dreary, a testament to what a world war followed by decades of communism, not to mention a civil war, can do to the architecture of a city that is 3,000 years old. A settlement had already existed on the site of the present-day city for some 2,000 years when Rome finally conquered Zadar in the 1st century BC; the foundations of the forum can be seen today. Before the Romans came the Liburnians had made it a key center for trade with the Greeks and Romans for 800 years. In the 3rd century BC the Romans began to seriously pester the Liburnians, but required two centuries to bring the area under their control. During the Byzantine era, Zadar became the capital of Dalmatia, and this period saw the construction of its most famous church, the 9th-century St. Donat's Basilica. It remained the region's foremost city through the ensuing centuries. The city then experienced successive onslaughts and occupations—both long and short—by the Osogoths, the Croatian-Hungarian kings, the Venetians, the Turks, the Habsburgs, the French, the Habsburgs again, and finally the Italians before becoming part of Yugoslavia and, in 1991, the independent republic of Croatia. Zadar was for centuries an Italian-speaking city, and Italian is still spoken widely, especially by older people. Indeed, it was ceded to Italy in 1921 under the Treaty of Rapallo (and reverted to its Italian name of Zara). Its occupation by the Germans from 1943 led to intense bombing by the Allies during World War II, which left most of the city in ruins. Zadar became part of Tito's Yugoslavia in 1947, prompting many Italian residents to leave. Zadar's most recent ravages occurred during a three-month siege by Serb forces and months more of bombardment during the Croatian-Serbian war between 1991 and 1995. But you'd be hard-pressed to find outward signs of this today in what is a city to behold. There are helpful interpretive signs in English all around the Old Town, so you certainly won't feel lost when trying to make sense of the wide variety of architectural sites you might otherwise pass by with only a cursory look.
Day 3 Dubrovnik, Croatia
Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of Dubrovnik. Lying 216 km (135 miles) southeast of Split and commanding a jaw-dropping coastal location, it is one of the world's most beautiful fortified cities. Its massive stone ramparts and fortress towers curve around a tiny harbor, enclosing graduated ridges of sun-bleached orange-tiled roofs, copper domes, and elegant bell towers. Your imagination will run wild picturing what it looked like seven centuries ago when the walls were built, without any suburbs or highways around it, just this magnificent stone city rising out of the sea.In the 7th century AD, residents of the Roman city Epidaurum (now Cavtat) fled the Avars and Slavs of the north and founded a new settlement on a small rocky island, which they named Laus, and later Ragusa. On the mainland hillside opposite the island, the Slav settlement called Dubrovnik grew up. In the 12th century the narrow channel separating the two settlements was filled in (now the main street through the Old Town, called Stradun), and Ragusa and Dubrovnik became one. The city was surrounded by defensive walls during the 13th century, and these were reinforced with towers and bastions in the late 15th century.From 1358 to 1808 the city thrived as a powerful and remarkably sophisticated independent republic, reaching its golden age during the 16th century. In 1667 many of its splendid Gothic and Renaissance buildings were destroyed by an earthquake. The defensive walls survived the disaster, and the city was rebuilt in baroque style.Dubrovnik lost its independence to Napoléon in 1808, and in 1815 passed to Austria-Hungary. During the 20th century, as part of Yugoslavia, the city became a popular tourist destination, and in 1979 it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During the war for independence, it came under heavy siege. Thanks to careful restoration, few traces of damage remain; however, there are maps inside the Pile and Ploce Gates illustrating the points around the city where damage was done. It's only when you experience Dubrovnik yourself that you can understand what a treasure the world nearly lost
Day 4 Kotor, Montenegro
Backed by imposing mountains, tiny Kotor lies hidden from the open sea, tucked into the deepest channel of the Bokor Kotorska (Kotor Bay), which is Europe's most southerly fjord. To many, this town is more charming than its sister UNESCO World Heritage Site, Dubrovnik, retaining more authenticity, but with fewer tourists and spared the war damage and subsequent rebuilding which has given Dubrovnik something of a Disney feel.Kotor's medieval Stari Grad (Old Town) is enclosed within well-preserved defensive walls built between the 9th and 18th centuries and is presided over by a proud hilltop fortress. Within the walls, a labyrinth of winding cobbled streets leads through a series of splendid paved piazzas, rimmed by centuries-old stone buildings. The squares are now haunted by strains from buskers but although many now house trendy cafés and chic boutiques, directions are still given medieval-style by reference to the town's landmark churches.In the Middle Ages, as Serbia's chief port, Kotor was an important economic and cultural center with its own highly regarded schools of stonemasonry and iconography. From 1391 to 1420 it was an independent city-republic and later, it spent periods under Venetian, Austrian, and French rule, though it was undoubtedly the Venetians who left the strongest impression on the city's architecture. Since the breakup of Yugoslavia, some 70% of the stone buildings in the romantic Old Town have been snapped up by foreigners, mostly Brits and Russians. Porto Montenegro, a new marina designed to accommodate some of the world's largest super yachts, opened in nearby Tivat in 2011, and along the bay are other charming seaside villages, all with better views of the bay than the vista from Kotor itself where the waterside is congested with cruise ships and yachts. Try sleepy Muo or the settlement of Prcanj in one direction around the bay, or Perast and the Roman mosaics of Risan in the other direction.
Day 5 Cruising
Day 6 Mykonos, Greece
Although the fishing boats still go out in good weather, Mykonos largely makes its living from tourism these days. The summer crowds have turned one of the poorest islands in Greece into one of the richest. Old Mykonians complain that their young, who have inherited stores where their grandfathers once sold eggs or wine, get so much rent that they have lost ambition, and in summer sit around pool bars at night with their friends, and hang out in Athens in winter when island life is less scintillating. Put firmly on the map by Jackie O in the 1960s, Mykonos town—called Hora by the locals—remains the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands. The scenery is memorable, with its whitewashed streets, Little Venice, the Kato Myli ridge of windmills, and Kastro, the town's medieval quarter. Its cubical two- or three-story houses and churches, with their red or blue doors and domes and wooden balconies, have been long celebrated as some of the best examples of classic Cycladic architecture. Luckily, the Greek Archaeological Service decided to preserve the town, even when the Mykonians would have preferred to rebuild, and so the Old Town has been impressively preserved. Pink oleander, scarlet hibiscus, and trailing green pepper trees form a contrast amid the dazzling whiteness, whose frequent renewal with whitewash is required by law. Any visitor who has the pleasure of getting lost in its narrow streets (made all the narrower by the many outdoor stone staircases, which maximize housing space in the crowded village) will appreciate how its confusing layout was designed to foil pirates—if it was designed at all. After Mykonos fell under Turkish rule in 1537, the Ottomans allowed the islanders to arm their vessels against pirates, which had a contradictory effect: many of them found that raiding other islands was more profitable than tilling arid land. At the height of Aegean piracy, Mykonos was the principal headquarters of the corsair fleets—the place where pirates met their fellows, found willing women, and filled out their crews. Eventually the illicit activity evolved into a legitimate and thriving trade network. Morning on Mykonos town's main quay is busy with deliveries, visitors for the Delos boats, lazy breakfasters, and street cleaners dealing with the previous night's mess. In late morning the cruise-boat people arrive, and the shops are all open. In early afternoon, shaded outdoor tavernas are full of diners eating salads (Mykonos's produce is mostly imported); music is absent or kept low. In mid- and late afternoon, the town feels sleepy, since so many people are at the beach, on excursions, or sleeping in their air-conditioned rooms; even some tourist shops close for siesta. By sunset, people have come back from the beach, having taken their showers and rested. At night, the atmosphere in Mykonos ramps up. The cruise-boat people are mostly gone, coughing three-wheelers make no deliveries in the narrow streets, and everyone is dressed sexy for summer and starting to shimmy with the scene. Many shops stay open past midnight, the restaurants fill up, and the bars and discos make ice cubes as fast as they can. Ready to dive in? Begin your tour of Mykonos town (Hora) by starting out at its heart: Mando Mavrogenous Square.
Day 7 Rhodes, Greece
Early travelers described Rhodes as a town of two parts: a castle or high town (Collachium) and a lower city. Today Rhodes town—sometimes referred to as Ródos town—is still a city of two parts: the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site that incorporates the high town and lower city, and the modern metropolis, or New Town, spreading away from the walls that encircle the Old Town. The narrow streets of the Old Town are for the most part closed to cars and are lined with Orthodox and Catholic churches, Turkish houses (some of which follow the ancient orthogonal plan), and medieval public buildings with exterior staircases and facades elegantly constructed of well-cut limestone from Lindos. Careful reconstruction in recent years has enhanced the harmonious effect.
Day 8 Santorini, Greece
Undoubtedly the most extraordinary island in the Aegean, crescent-shape Santorini remains a mandatory stop on the Cycladic tourist route—even if it's necessary to enjoy the sensational sunsets from Ia, the fascinating excavations, and the dazzling white towns with a million other travelers. Called Kállisti (the "Loveliest") when first settled, the island has now reverted to its subsequent name of Thira, after the 9th-century-BC Dorian colonizer Thiras. The place is better known, however, these days as Santorini, a name derived from its patroness, St. Irene of Thessaloniki, the Byzantine empress who restored icons to Orthodoxy and died in 802. You can fly conveniently to Santorini, but to enjoy a true Santorini rite of passage, opt instead for the boat trip here, which provides a spectacular introduction. After the boat sails between Sikinos and Ios, your deck-side perch approaches two close islands with a passage between them. The bigger one on the left is Santorini, and the smaller on the right is Thirassia. Passing between them, you see the village of Ia adorning Santorini's northernmost cliff like a white geometric beehive. You are in the caldera (volcanic crater), one of the world's truly breathtaking sights: a demilune of cliffs rising 1,100 feet, with the white clusters of the towns of Fira and Ia perched along the top. The bay, once the high center of the island, is 1,300 feet in some places, so deep that when boats dock in Santorini's shabby little port of Athinios, they do not drop anchor. The encircling cliffs are the ancient rim of a still-active volcano, and you are sailing east across its flooded caldera. On your right are the Burnt isles, the White isle, and other volcanic remnants, all lined up as if some outsize display in a geology museum. Hephaestus's subterranean fires smolder still—the volcano erupted in 198 BC, about 735, and there was an earthquake in 1956. Indeed, Santorini and its four neighboring islets are the fragmentary remains of a larger landmass that exploded about 1600 BC: the volcano's core blew sky high, and the sea rushed into the abyss to create the great bay, which measures 10 km by 7 km (6 mi by 4½ mi) and is 1,292 feet deep. The other pieces of the rim, which broke off in later eruptions, are Thirassia, where a few hundred people live, and deserted little Aspronissi ("White isle"). In the center of the bay, black and uninhabited, two cones, the Burnt Isles of Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, appeared between 1573 and 1925. There has been too much speculation about the identification of Santorini with the mythical Atlantis, mentioned in Egyptian papyri and by Plato (who says it's in the Atlantic), but myths are hard to pin down. This is not true of old arguments about whether tidal waves from Santorini's cataclysmic explosion destroyed Minoan civilization on Crete, 113 km (70 mi) away. The latest carbon-dating evidence, which points to a few years before 1600 BC for the eruption, clearly indicates that the Minoans outlasted the eruption by a couple of hundred years, but most probably in a weakened state. In fact, the island still endures hardships: since antiquity, Santorini has depended on rain collected in cisterns for drinking and irrigating—the well water is often brackish—and the serious shortage is alleviated by the importation of water. However, the volcanic soil also yields riches: small, intense tomatoes with tough skins used for tomato paste (good restaurants here serve them); the famous Santorini fava beans, which have a light, fresh taste; barley; wheat; and white-skin eggplants.
Day 9 Kusadasi, Turkey
Whilst the busy resort town of Kusadasi offers much in the way of shopping and dining – not to mention a flourishing beach life scene, the real jewel here is Ephesus and the stunning ruined city that really take centre stage. With only 20% of the classical ruins having been excavated, this archaeological wonder has already gained the status as Europe's most complete classical metropolis. And a metropolis it really is; built in the 10th century BC this UNESCO World Heritage site is nothing short of spectacular. Although regrettably very little remains of the Temple of Artemis (one of the seven wonders of the ancient world), the superb Library of Celsus' façade is practically intact and it is one of life's great joys to attend an evening performance in the illuminated ruins once all the tourists have left. The history of the city is fascinating and multi-layered and it is well worth reading up on this beforehand if a visit is planned. Another point of interest for historians would be the house of the Virgin Mary, located on the romantically named Mount Nightingale and just nine kilometres away from Ephesus proper. Legend has it that Mary (along with St. John) spent her final years here, secluded from the rest of the population, spreading Christianity. An edifying experience, even for non-believers. For the less historical minded amongst you, Kusadasi offers plenty in the way of activities. After a stroll through the town, jump in a taxi to Ladies' Beach (men are allowed), sample a Turkish kebap on one of the many beachfront restaurants and enjoy the clement weather. If you do want to venture further afield, then the crystal clear beaches of Guzelcamli (or the Millipark), the cave of Zeus and the white scalloped natural pools at Pamukkale, known as Cleopatra's pools, are definitely worth a visit.
Day 10 Cruising
Day 11 Piraeus, Greece
It's no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense. Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are close to the modern city center. You can easily walk from the Acropolis to many other key sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. From many quarters of the city you can glimpse "the glory that was Greece" in the form of the Acropolis looming above the horizon, but only by actually climbing that rocky precipice can you feel the impact of the ancient settlement. The Acropolis and Filopappou, two craggy hills sitting side by side; the ancient Agora (marketplace); and Kerameikos, the first cemetery, form the core of ancient and Roman Athens. Along the Unification of Archaeological Sites promenade, you can follow stone-paved, tree-lined walkways from site to site, undisturbed by traffic. Cars have also been banned or reduced in other streets in the historical center. In the National Archaeological Museum, vast numbers of artifacts illustrate the many millennia of Greek civilization; smaller museums such as the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum illuminate the history of particular regions or periods. Athens may seem like one huge city, but it is really a conglomeration of neighborhoods with distinctive characters. The Eastern influences that prevailed during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire are still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the foot of the Acropolis. On the northern slope of the Acropolis, stroll through Plaka (if possible by moonlight), an area of tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions, to get the flavor of the 19th-century's gracious lifestyle. The narrow lanes of Anafiotika, a section of Plaka, thread past tiny churches and small, color-washed houses with wooden upper stories, recalling a Cycladic island village. In this maze of winding streets, vestiges of the older city are everywhere: crumbling stairways lined with festive tavernas; dank cellars filled with wine vats; occasionally a court or diminutive garden, enclosed within high walls and filled with magnolia trees and the flaming trumpet-shaped flowers of hibiscus bushes. Formerly run-down old quarters, such as Thission, Gazi and Psirri, popular nightlife areas filled with bars and mezedopoleia (similar to tapas bars), are now in the process of gentrification, although they still retain much of their original charm, as does the colorful produce and meat market on Athinas. The area around Syntagma Square, the tourist hub, and Omonia Square, the commercial heart of the city about 1 km (½ mi) northwest, is distinctly European, having been designed by the court architects of King Otho, a Bavarian, in the 19th century. The chic shops and bistros of ritzy Kolonaki nestle at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus, Athens's highest hill (909 feet). Each of Athens's outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: in the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, once a summer resort for aristocratic Athenians, and in the south and southeast lie Glyfada, Voula, and Vouliagmeni, with their sandy beaches, seaside bars, and lively summer nightlife. Just beyond the city's southern fringes is Piraeus, a bustling port city of waterside fish tavernas and Saronic Gulf views.
Day 1 Ravenna, Italy
A small, quiet, well-heeled city, Ravenna has brick palaces, cobblestone streets, magnificent monuments, and spectacular Byzantine mosaics. The high point in its civic history occurred in the 5th century, when Pope Honorious moved his court here from Rome. Gothic kings Odoacer and Theodoric ruled the city until it was conquered by the Byzantines in AD 540. Ravenna later fell under the sway of Venice, and then, inevitably, the Papal States.Because Ravenna spent much of its past looking east, its greatest art treasures show that Byzantine influence. Churches and tombs with the most unassuming exteriors contain within them walls covered with sumptuous mosaics. These beautifully preserved Byzantine mosaics put great emphasis on nature, which you can see in the delicate rendering of sky, earth, and animals. Outside Ravenna, the town of Classe hides even more mosaic gems.
Day 2 Cruising
Day 3 Zadar, Croatia
Dalmatia's capital for more than 1,000 years, Zadar is all too often passed over by travelers on their way to Split or Dubrovnik. What they miss out on is a city of more than 73,000 that is remarkably lovely and lively despite—and, in some measure, because of—its tumultuous history. The Old Town, separated from the rest of the city on a peninsula some 4 km (2½ miles) long and just 1,640 feet wide, is bustling and beautiful: the marble pedestrian streets are replete with Roman ruins, medieval churches, palaces, museums, archives, and libraries. Parts of the new town are comparatively dreary, a testament to what a world war followed by decades of communism, not to mention a civil war, can do to the architecture of a city that is 3,000 years old. A settlement had already existed on the site of the present-day city for some 2,000 years when Rome finally conquered Zadar in the 1st century BC; the foundations of the forum can be seen today. Before the Romans came the Liburnians had made it a key center for trade with the Greeks and Romans for 800 years. In the 3rd century BC the Romans began to seriously pester the Liburnians, but required two centuries to bring the area under their control. During the Byzantine era, Zadar became the capital of Dalmatia, and this period saw the construction of its most famous church, the 9th-century St. Donat's Basilica. It remained the region's foremost city through the ensuing centuries. The city then experienced successive onslaughts and occupations—both long and short—by the Osogoths, the Croatian-Hungarian kings, the Venetians, the Turks, the Habsburgs, the French, the Habsburgs again, and finally the Italians before becoming part of Yugoslavia and, in 1991, the independent republic of Croatia. Zadar was for centuries an Italian-speaking city, and Italian is still spoken widely, especially by older people. Indeed, it was ceded to Italy in 1921 under the Treaty of Rapallo (and reverted to its Italian name of Zara). Its occupation by the Germans from 1943 led to intense bombing by the Allies during World War II, which left most of the city in ruins. Zadar became part of Tito's Yugoslavia in 1947, prompting many Italian residents to leave. Zadar's most recent ravages occurred during a three-month siege by Serb forces and months more of bombardment during the Croatian-Serbian war between 1991 and 1995. But you'd be hard-pressed to find outward signs of this today in what is a city to behold. There are helpful interpretive signs in English all around the Old Town, so you certainly won't feel lost when trying to make sense of the wide variety of architectural sites you might otherwise pass by with only a cursory look.
Day 4 Split, Croatia
Split's ancient core is so spectacular and unusual that a visit is more than worth your time. The heart of the city lies within the walls of Roman emperor Diocletian's retirement palace, which was built in the 3rd century AD. Diocletian, born in the nearby Roman settlement of Salona in AD 245, achieved a brilliant career as a soldier and became emperor at the age of 40. In 295 he ordered this vast palace to be built in his native Dalmatia, and when it was completed he stepped down from the throne and retired to his beloved homeland. Upon his death, he was laid to rest in an octagonal mausoleum, around which Split's magnificent cathedral was built.In 615, when Salona was sacked by barbarian tribes, those fortunate enough to escape found refuge within the stout palace walls and divided up the vast imperial apartments into more modest living quarters. Thus, the palace developed into an urban center, and by the 11th century the settlement had expanded beyond the ancient walls.Under the rule of Venice (1420–1797), Split—as a gateway to the Balkan interior—became one of the Adriatic's main trading ports, and the city's splendid Renaissance palaces bear witness to the affluence of those times. When the Habsburgs took control during the 19th century, an overland connection to Central Europe was established by the construction of the Split–Zagreb–Vienna railway line.After World War II, the Tito years saw a period of rapid urban expansion: industrialization accelerated and the suburbs extended to accommodate high-rise apartment blocks. Today the historic center of Split is included on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites.
Day 5 Kotor, Montenegro
Backed by imposing mountains, tiny Kotor lies hidden from the open sea, tucked into the deepest channel of the Bokor Kotorska (Kotor Bay), which is Europe's most southerly fjord. To many, this town is more charming than its sister UNESCO World Heritage Site, Dubrovnik, retaining more authenticity, but with fewer tourists and spared the war damage and subsequent rebuilding which has given Dubrovnik something of a Disney feel.Kotor's medieval Stari Grad (Old Town) is enclosed within well-preserved defensive walls built between the 9th and 18th centuries and is presided over by a proud hilltop fortress. Within the walls, a labyrinth of winding cobbled streets leads through a series of splendid paved piazzas, rimmed by centuries-old stone buildings. The squares are now haunted by strains from buskers but although many now house trendy cafés and chic boutiques, directions are still given medieval-style by reference to the town's landmark churches.In the Middle Ages, as Serbia's chief port, Kotor was an important economic and cultural center with its own highly regarded schools of stonemasonry and iconography. From 1391 to 1420 it was an independent city-republic and later, it spent periods under Venetian, Austrian, and French rule, though it was undoubtedly the Venetians who left the strongest impression on the city's architecture. Since the breakup of Yugoslavia, some 70% of the stone buildings in the romantic Old Town have been snapped up by foreigners, mostly Brits and Russians. Porto Montenegro, a new marina designed to accommodate some of the world's largest super yachts, opened in nearby Tivat in 2011, and along the bay are other charming seaside villages, all with better views of the bay than the vista from Kotor itself where the waterside is congested with cruise ships and yachts. Try sleepy Muo or the settlement of Prcanj in one direction around the bay, or Perast and the Roman mosaics of Risan in the other direction.
Day 6 Cruising
Day 7 Mykonos, Greece
Although the fishing boats still go out in good weather, Mykonos largely makes its living from tourism these days. The summer crowds have turned one of the poorest islands in Greece into one of the richest. Old Mykonians complain that their young, who have inherited stores where their grandfathers once sold eggs or wine, get so much rent that they have lost ambition, and in summer sit around pool bars at night with their friends, and hang out in Athens in winter when island life is less scintillating. Put firmly on the map by Jackie O in the 1960s, Mykonos town—called Hora by the locals—remains the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands. The scenery is memorable, with its whitewashed streets, Little Venice, the Kato Myli ridge of windmills, and Kastro, the town's medieval quarter. Its cubical two- or three-story houses and churches, with their red or blue doors and domes and wooden balconies, have been long celebrated as some of the best examples of classic Cycladic architecture. Luckily, the Greek Archaeological Service decided to preserve the town, even when the Mykonians would have preferred to rebuild, and so the Old Town has been impressively preserved. Pink oleander, scarlet hibiscus, and trailing green pepper trees form a contrast amid the dazzling whiteness, whose frequent renewal with whitewash is required by law. Any visitor who has the pleasure of getting lost in its narrow streets (made all the narrower by the many outdoor stone staircases, which maximize housing space in the crowded village) will appreciate how its confusing layout was designed to foil pirates—if it was designed at all. After Mykonos fell under Turkish rule in 1537, the Ottomans allowed the islanders to arm their vessels against pirates, which had a contradictory effect: many of them found that raiding other islands was more profitable than tilling arid land. At the height of Aegean piracy, Mykonos was the principal headquarters of the corsair fleets—the place where pirates met their fellows, found willing women, and filled out their crews. Eventually the illicit activity evolved into a legitimate and thriving trade network. Morning on Mykonos town's main quay is busy with deliveries, visitors for the Delos boats, lazy breakfasters, and street cleaners dealing with the previous night's mess. In late morning the cruise-boat people arrive, and the shops are all open. In early afternoon, shaded outdoor tavernas are full of diners eating salads (Mykonos's produce is mostly imported); music is absent or kept low. In mid- and late afternoon, the town feels sleepy, since so many people are at the beach, on excursions, or sleeping in their air-conditioned rooms; even some tourist shops close for siesta. By sunset, people have come back from the beach, having taken their showers and rested. At night, the atmosphere in Mykonos ramps up. The cruise-boat people are mostly gone, coughing three-wheelers make no deliveries in the narrow streets, and everyone is dressed sexy for summer and starting to shimmy with the scene. Many shops stay open past midnight, the restaurants fill up, and the bars and discos make ice cubes as fast as they can. Ready to dive in? Begin your tour of Mykonos town (Hora) by starting out at its heart: Mando Mavrogenous Square.
Day 8 Santorini, Greece
Undoubtedly the most extraordinary island in the Aegean, crescent-shape Santorini remains a mandatory stop on the Cycladic tourist route—even if it's necessary to enjoy the sensational sunsets from Ia, the fascinating excavations, and the dazzling white towns with a million other travelers. Called Kállisti (the "Loveliest") when first settled, the island has now reverted to its subsequent name of Thira, after the 9th-century-BC Dorian colonizer Thiras. The place is better known, however, these days as Santorini, a name derived from its patroness, St. Irene of Thessaloniki, the Byzantine empress who restored icons to Orthodoxy and died in 802. You can fly conveniently to Santorini, but to enjoy a true Santorini rite of passage, opt instead for the boat trip here, which provides a spectacular introduction. After the boat sails between Sikinos and Ios, your deck-side perch approaches two close islands with a passage between them. The bigger one on the left is Santorini, and the smaller on the right is Thirassia. Passing between them, you see the village of Ia adorning Santorini's northernmost cliff like a white geometric beehive. You are in the caldera (volcanic crater), one of the world's truly breathtaking sights: a demilune of cliffs rising 1,100 feet, with the white clusters of the towns of Fira and Ia perched along the top. The bay, once the high center of the island, is 1,300 feet in some places, so deep that when boats dock in Santorini's shabby little port of Athinios, they do not drop anchor. The encircling cliffs are the ancient rim of a still-active volcano, and you are sailing east across its flooded caldera. On your right are the Burnt isles, the White isle, and other volcanic remnants, all lined up as if some outsize display in a geology museum. Hephaestus's subterranean fires smolder still—the volcano erupted in 198 BC, about 735, and there was an earthquake in 1956. Indeed, Santorini and its four neighboring islets are the fragmentary remains of a larger landmass that exploded about 1600 BC: the volcano's core blew sky high, and the sea rushed into the abyss to create the great bay, which measures 10 km by 7 km (6 mi by 4½ mi) and is 1,292 feet deep. The other pieces of the rim, which broke off in later eruptions, are Thirassia, where a few hundred people live, and deserted little Aspronissi ("White isle"). In the center of the bay, black and uninhabited, two cones, the Burnt Isles of Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, appeared between 1573 and 1925. There has been too much speculation about the identification of Santorini with the mythical Atlantis, mentioned in Egyptian papyri and by Plato (who says it's in the Atlantic), but myths are hard to pin down. This is not true of old arguments about whether tidal waves from Santorini's cataclysmic explosion destroyed Minoan civilization on Crete, 113 km (70 mi) away. The latest carbon-dating evidence, which points to a few years before 1600 BC for the eruption, clearly indicates that the Minoans outlasted the eruption by a couple of hundred years, but most probably in a weakened state. In fact, the island still endures hardships: since antiquity, Santorini has depended on rain collected in cisterns for drinking and irrigating—the well water is often brackish—and the serious shortage is alleviated by the importation of water. However, the volcanic soil also yields riches: small, intense tomatoes with tough skins used for tomato paste (good restaurants here serve them); the famous Santorini fava beans, which have a light, fresh taste; barley; wheat; and white-skin eggplants.
Day 9 Rhodes, Greece
Early travelers described Rhodes as a town of two parts: a castle or high town (Collachium) and a lower city. Today Rhodes town—sometimes referred to as Ródos town—is still a city of two parts: the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site that incorporates the high town and lower city, and the modern metropolis, or New Town, spreading away from the walls that encircle the Old Town. The narrow streets of the Old Town are for the most part closed to cars and are lined with Orthodox and Catholic churches, Turkish houses (some of which follow the ancient orthogonal plan), and medieval public buildings with exterior staircases and facades elegantly constructed of well-cut limestone from Lindos. Careful reconstruction in recent years has enhanced the harmonious effect.
Day 10 Soúda, Crete, Greece
Day 11 Piraeus, Greece
It's no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense. Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are close to the modern city center. You can easily walk from the Acropolis to many other key sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. From many quarters of the city you can glimpse "the glory that was Greece" in the form of the Acropolis looming above the horizon, but only by actually climbing that rocky precipice can you feel the impact of the ancient settlement. The Acropolis and Filopappou, two craggy hills sitting side by side; the ancient Agora (marketplace); and Kerameikos, the first cemetery, form the core of ancient and Roman Athens. Along the Unification of Archaeological Sites promenade, you can follow stone-paved, tree-lined walkways from site to site, undisturbed by traffic. Cars have also been banned or reduced in other streets in the historical center. In the National Archaeological Museum, vast numbers of artifacts illustrate the many millennia of Greek civilization; smaller museums such as the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum illuminate the history of particular regions or periods. Athens may seem like one huge city, but it is really a conglomeration of neighborhoods with distinctive characters. The Eastern influences that prevailed during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire are still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the foot of the Acropolis. On the northern slope of the Acropolis, stroll through Plaka (if possible by moonlight), an area of tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions, to get the flavor of the 19th-century's gracious lifestyle. The narrow lanes of Anafiotika, a section of Plaka, thread past tiny churches and small, color-washed houses with wooden upper stories, recalling a Cycladic island village. In this maze of winding streets, vestiges of the older city are everywhere: crumbling stairways lined with festive tavernas; dank cellars filled with wine vats; occasionally a court or diminutive garden, enclosed within high walls and filled with magnolia trees and the flaming trumpet-shaped flowers of hibiscus bushes. Formerly run-down old quarters, such as Thission, Gazi and Psirri, popular nightlife areas filled with bars and mezedopoleia (similar to tapas bars), are now in the process of gentrification, although they still retain much of their original charm, as does the colorful produce and meat market on Athinas. The area around Syntagma Square, the tourist hub, and Omonia Square, the commercial heart of the city about 1 km (½ mi) northwest, is distinctly European, having been designed by the court architects of King Otho, a Bavarian, in the 19th century. The chic shops and bistros of ritzy Kolonaki nestle at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus, Athens's highest hill (909 feet). Each of Athens's outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: in the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, once a summer resort for aristocratic Athenians, and in the south and southeast lie Glyfada, Voula, and Vouliagmeni, with their sandy beaches, seaside bars, and lively summer nightlife. Just beyond the city's southern fringes is Piraeus, a bustling port city of waterside fish tavernas and Saronic Gulf views.
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