Courtyards & Colonnades/Riviera
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Riviera

Courtyards & Colonnades - 10 night cruise



Cruise only from €4,035

Price based on lowest available cruise only fare for double occupancy. Subject to change at any time.


Description

Highlights

Gratuities

Dates and Prices

Cabins

Sister ship to Marina, stunning Riviera was designed to be special in so many ways and reflects a new level of grace and elegance through designer touches, upholstery and fabrics throughout. She features multiple gourmet restaurants and along with Marina, offers unforgettable food and wine pairings at La Reserve by Wine Spectator as well as the opportunity for private dining at opulent Privée. From the Lalique Grand Staircase to the Owner's Suites furnished in Ralph Lauren Home, designer touches that create a casually elegant atmosphere are everywhere. Riviera's refined ambiance truly embodies the unparalleled Oceania Cruises experience.

Riviera blends sophistication with a contemporary flair to create a casually elegant ambiance. From the sparkling Lalique Grand Staircase to the stunning Owner's Suites furnished with Ralph Lauren Home, designer touches are everywhere, highlighting the finest residential design and furnishings. More than anything, Riviera personifies the Oceania Cruises experience.

Cruise ID: 27700

Artist Loft: For budding artists, there is the Artist Loft enrichment centre, where talented artists-in-residence offer step-by-step instruction. Under their watchful eye, you may paint with oils or watercolours, sketch or create collages. The courses change continually and are designed with every level in mind, so everyone from beginners to seasoned professionals will find the classes engaging and enriching. With the masters' guidance, your talents will quickly blossom.

How much you choose to tip is a personal matter and completely at your discretion. For your convenience, the following gratuities are automatically added to your shipboard account.

For guests occupying staterooms, gratuities of $16.00 per guest, per day will be added.

For guests occupying Penthouse, Oceania, Vista or Owner's Suites where Butler Service is provided, gratuities of $23.00 per guest, per day will be added.

In addition, an 18% service gratuity is automatically added to all beverage purchases, spa services and dinner at La Reserve. Naturally, guests may adjust gratuities while on board the vessel at their sole discretion.

Date Time Price * Booking
11 September 2024 18:00 €4,035 Call us to book

* Price based on lowest available cruise only fare for double occupancy. Subject to change at any time.

Cabins on Riviera

Deluxe Ocean View Staterooms
2

Highlighting floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows, our thoroughly renewed Deluxe Oceanview Staterooms deliver 240 square feet of sybaritic bliss. With curtains drawn open, natural light bathes the plush Tranquility Bed, convivial seating area, vanity desk, breakfast table and refrigerated mini-bar with a rich glow. Luxury also permeates the marble- and granite-clad bathroom, which features an expanded walk-in shower.

Deluxe Oceanview Stateroom Amenities

Complimentary soft drinks replenished daily in your refrigerated mini-bar

  • Complimentary still & sparkling Vero Water
  • Complimentary room service menu 24 hours a day
  • Tranquility Bed, an Oceania Cruises Exclusive
  • Bulgari amenities
  • Twice-daily maid service
  • Category (C1) includes accessibility features in stateroom 7064 and 7067.
  • Interactive television system with on-demand movies, weather and more
  • Wireless Internet access and cellular service
  • Writing desk and stationery
  • Plush cotton towels, robes and slippers
  • Handheld hair dryer
  • Security safe
  • Belgian chocolates with turndown service

Deluxe Oceanview Accessibility Features:

  • Available in staterooms #7082 and #7085
  • Bed with hoist space
  • Large bathroom door
  • Toilet grab rails
  • Roll in bathrooms with no lip riser which has a wraparound drainage system

Smoking in suites, staterooms and on verandas is strictly prohibited.

Facilities

  • King or Twin Configuration
  • Lounge Area
  • Shower
  • Bath
  • Toiletries Provided
  • Room Service Available
  • TV
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Media/Entertainment Station
  • Safe
  • Hair Dryer
  • Desk

Inside Stateroom
2

Our Inside Staterooms feature 174 square feet of refined elegance and idyllic solace. Freshly reimagined with stylish new furnishings and a restful palette, these sanctuaries feature thoughtful amenities such as a vanity desk, breakfast table, refrigerated mini-bar and a tony European stone-enveloped bathroom with a shower.

Inside Stateroom Amenities:

  • Complimentary soft drinks replenished daily in your refrigerated mini-bar

  • Complimentary still & sparkling Vero Water
  • Complimentary room service menu 24 hours a day
  • Tranquility Bed, an Oceania Cruises Exclusive
  • Bulgari amenities
  • Twice-daily maid service
  • Interactive television system with on-demand movies, weather and more
  • Wireless Internet access and cellular service
  • Writing desk and stationery
  • Plush cotton towels, robes and slippers
  • Handheld hair dryer
  • Security safe
  • Belgian chocolates with turndown service

Smoking in suites, staterooms and on verandas is strictly prohibited.

Facilities

  • King or Twin Configuration
  • Shower
  • Toiletries Provided
  • Room Service Available
  • TV
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Media/Entertainment Station
  • Safe
  • Hair Dryer
  • Desk

Owner's Suite
1-2

Akin to a dramatic coastal villa, the Owner's Suites exude a sophisticated and luxurious personality. At more than 2,000 square feet, each features a living room, dining room, master bedroom and two bathrooms. These suites are adorned with designer furnishings and exquisite appointments, creating a blissful enclave at sea. There are separate terraces for the living areas and bedroom and expanses of floor-to-ceiling windows provide captivating vistas and with the stunning backdrop of the sea all around. All of our suites include exclusive 24-hour Butler service and are uncommonly spacious, further adding to the unparalleled suite experience.

Owner's Suite Privileges

In addition to Stateroom Amenities

  • Complimentary laundry service – up to 3 bags per stateroom+
  • Priority 11 am ship embarkation with priority luggage delivery
  • Exclusive card-only access to private Executive Lounge staffed by a dedicated Concierge featuring complimentary soft drinks, coffees and snacks throughout the day
  • 24-hour Butler service
  • Complimentary in-suite bar setup with 6 full-size bottles of premium spirits and wines from our suite beverage menu
  • Complimentary welcome bottle of Champagne
  • Fresh fruit basket replenished daily
  • Priority online specialty restaurant reservations
  • Unlimited access to Aquamar Spa Terrace
  • iPad® upon request for your enjoyment on board
  • Optional private in-suite embarkation day lunch from noon to 2 pm in Owner's Suites
  • Customised entertainment system
  • Bulgari gift set and variety of amenities
  • Choice of daily printed newspaper
  • Complimentary Oceania Cruises logo tote bag and personalised stationery
  • Cashmere lap blankets
  • Choice of pillow from a luxurious selection
  • Complimentary shoeshine service
  • Complimentary pressing of garments upon embarkation++
+Up to 20 garments per laundry bag; additional restrictions apply.
++Certain limitations apply.

Smoking in suites, staterooms and on verandas is strictly prohibited.

Facilities

  • King or Twin Configuration
  • Lounge Area
  • Shower
  • Whirlpool Bath
  • Toiletries Provided
  • Room Service Available
  • Suite Benefits
  • Butler Service
  • TV
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Media/Entertainment Station
  • Safe
  • Hair Dryer
  • Pillow Menu Available
  • Desk
  • Dining Area
  • Vanity Area
  • Full Bar
  • Telephone

Vista Suite
1-2

Given their lavish interior design that resembles an elegant and luxurious Park Avenue home along with their premier location overlooking the bow of the ship, the eight Vista Suites are in high demand. These 1,200- to 1,500-square-foot suites include access to the exclusive Executive Lounge as well as every imaginable amenity, such as a large walk-in closet, king-size bed, second bathroom for guests, indoor and outdoor whirlpool spas and your own private fitness room.

Vista Suite Privileges

In addition to Stateroom Amenities

  • Complimentary laundry service – up to 3 bags per stateroom+
  • Priority 11 am ship embarkation with priority luggage delivery
  • Exclusive card-only access to private Executive Lounge staffed by a dedicated Concierge featuring complimentary soft drinks, coffees and snacks throughout the day
  • 24-hour Butler service
  • Complimentary in-suite bar setup with 6 full-size bottles of premium spirits and wines from our suite beverage menu
  • Complimentary welcome bottle of Champagne
  • Fresh fruit basket replenished daily
  • Priority online specialty restaurant reservations
  • Unlimited access to Aquamar Spa Terrace
  • iPad® upon request for your enjoyment on board
  • Customized entertainment system
  • Bulgari gift set and variety of amenities
  • Choice of daily printed newspaper
  • Complimentary Oceania Cruises logo tote bag and personalized stationery
  • Cashmere lap blankets
  • Choice of pillow from a luxurious selection
  • Complimentary shoeshine service
  • Complimentary pressing of garments upon embarkation++
  • +Up to 20 garments per laundry bag; additional restrictions apply.
  • ++Certain limitations apply.
Smoking in suites, staterooms and on verandas is strictly prohibited.

Facilities

  • King or Twin Configuration
  • Lounge Area
  • Shower
  • Whirlpool Bath
  • Toiletries Provided
  • Room Service Available
  • Suite Benefits
  • Butler Service
  • TV
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Media/Entertainment Station
  • Safe
  • Hair Dryer
  • Desk
  • Dining Area
  • Vanity Area
  • Full Bar
  • Pillow Menu Available
  • Telephone

Oceania Suite
1-2

Featuring a luxurious residential design and stylish furnishings, each of the twelve Oceania Suites offers more than 1,000 square feet of luxury. These stylish suites offer a living room, dining room, fully equipped media room, large walk-in closet, king-size bed, whirlpool spa, expansive private veranda and a second bathroom for guests. Also included is access to the private Executive Lounge with magazines, daily newspapers, beverages and snacks.

In addition to Suite & Stateroom Amenities

  • Free laundry service – up to 3 bags per stateroom+
  • Priority 11 am ship embarkation with priority luggage delivery
  • Exclusive card-only access to private Executive Lounge staffed by a dedicated Concierge, featuring complimentary soft drinks, coffees and snacks throughout the day
  • 24-hour Butler service
  • Complimentary in-suite bar setup with 6 full-size bottles of premium spirits and wines from our suite beverage menu
  • Fresh fruit basket replenished daily
  • Priority online specialty restaurant reservations
  • Unlimited access to the Aquamar Spa Terrace
  • Complimentary iPad®
  • Customized entertainment system
  • Bulgari gift set and variety of amenities
  • Choice of daily printed newspaper
  • Complimentary Oceania Cruises logo tote bagand personalized stationary
  • Cashmere lap blankets
  • Choice of pillow from a luxurious selection
  • Complimentary shoe shine service
  • Complimentary pressing of garments upon embarkation++

+Up to 20 garments per laundry bag. 3 day turnaround time and laundry will not be accepted 3 days prior to disembarkation.

++Certain limitations apply

Smoking in suites, staterooms and on verandas is strictly prohibited.

Facilities

  • King or Twin Configuration
  • Lounge Area
  • Shower
  • Whirlpool Bath
  • Toiletries Provided
  • Room Service Available
  • Suite Benefits
  • Butler Service
  • TV
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Media/Entertainment Station
  • Safe
  • Hair Dryer
  • Desk

Penthouse Suite
1-2

The Penthouse Suites are a marvel of harmonious decor and lavish finishes, encompassing an expansive 440 square feet. Enhanced features include custom lighting, a dining table, separate seating area, walk-in closet, private teak veranda and a marble-clad bathroom with newly added storage space and an expanded shower, all ingeniously laid out to amplify contentment. Naturally, enjoy the ministrations of a dedicated Concierge and exclusive access to the amenities of the elite Executive Lounge.

In addition to Suite & Stateroom Amenities

  • Free laundry service – up to 3 bags per stateroom+
  • Priority Noon ship embarkation with priority luggage delivery
  • Exclusive card-only access to private Executive Lounge staffed by a dedicated Concierge featuring complimentary soft drinks, coffees and snacks throughout the day
  • 24-hour Butler service
  • Complimentary welcome bottle of Champagne
  • Priority online specialty restaurant reservations
  • Unlimited access to the Aquamar Spa Terrace
  • iPad® upon request
  • Bulgari gift set++ and a variety of amenities
  • Customized entertainment system
  • Cashmere lap blankets
  • Complimentary shoe shine service
  • Complimentary pressing of garments upon embarkation++

+Up to 20 garments per laundry bag. 3 day turnaround time and laundry will not be accepted 3 days prior to disembarkation.

++Certain limitations apply

Smoking in suites, staterooms and on verandas is strictly prohibited.

Facilities

  • King or Twin Configuration
  • Lounge Area
  • Shower
  • Bath
  • Toiletries Provided
  • Room Service Available
  • Suite Benefits
  • Butler Service
  • TV
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Media/Entertainment Station
  • Safe
  • Hair Dryer
  • Desk

Veranda Stateroom
1-2

Our coveted 291-square-foot Veranda Staterooms, among the most generous at sea, have been imbued with sumptuous new furnishings in calming hues to create the ultimate sanctuary. There is ample room for leisurely pursuits, including a furnished private teak veranda. Indulgent amenities are plentiful, such as dazzling new lighting, an inviting seating area, refrigerated mini-bar, generous closet and a marble- and granite-sheathed bathroom showcasing new additional storage and an expanded walk-in shower.

Tranquility Bed, an Oceania Cruises exclusive, with 1,000-thread-count linens

  • Complimentary still & sparkling Vero Water
  • Private teak veranda
  • Bulgari amenities
  • Room service menu 24 hours a day
  • Twice-daily maid service
  • Belgian chocolates with turndown service
  • Interactive television system with on-demand movies, weather and more
  • Wireless Internet access and cellular service
  • Writing desk and stationery
  • Plush cotton towels
  • Thick cotton robes and slippers
  • Handheld hair dryer
  • Security safe
  • Complimentary soft drinks replenished daily in your refrigerated mini-bar

Smoking in suites, staterooms and on verandas is strictly prohibited.

Facilities

  • King or Twin Configuration
  • Lounge Area
  • Shower
  • Bath
  • Toiletries Provided
  • Room Service Available
  • TV
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Media/Entertainment Station
  • Safe
  • Hair Dryer
  • Desk

Concierge Level Veranda Stateroom
1-2

With nary a detail left untouched, our refreshed Concierge Level Veranda Staterooms boast an extravagant new Continental style throughout. These 291-square-foot retreats offer enticing amenities also found in our Penthouse Suites, such as a private teak veranda, gracious seating area, refrigerated mini-bar and an oversized bathroom featuring new storage space and an enlarged walk-in shower. In the private Concierge Lounge, relish the services of a dedicated Concierge and partake in an alluring array of beverages, daily treats and a selection of global newspapers and thought-provoking magazines.

In addition to Suite & Stateroom Amenities

  • Expanded lunch and dinner room service menu from The Grand Dining Room
  • Free laundry service – up to 3 bags per stateroom+
  • Priority Noon ship embarkation
  • Exclusive card-only access to private Concierge Lounge staffed by a dedicated Concierge featuring complimentary soft drinks, coffees and snacks throughout the day
  • Complimentary welcome bottle of Champagne
  • Priority online specialty restaurant reservations
  • Unlimited access to the Aquamar Spa Terrace
  • iPad® upon request for your enjoyment on board++
  • Variety of Bulgari amenities
  • Complimentary Oceania Cruises logo tote bag
  • Cashmere lap blankets, perfect for relaxing on your veranda
  • Complimentary pressing of garments upon embarkation+++
  • Complimentary shoe shine service

+Up to 20 garments per laundry bag. 3 day turnaround time and laundry will not be accepted 3 days prior to disembarkation.

++Limited availability

+++Certain limitations apply

Smoking in suites, staterooms and on verandas is strictly prohibited.

Facilities

  • King or Twin Configuration
  • Lounge Area
  • Shower
  • Bath
  • Toiletries Provided
  • Room Service Available
  • Suite Benefits
  • TV
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Media/Entertainment Station
  • Safe
  • Hair Dryer
  • Desk

View Itinerary By Date



Day 1 Barcelona, Spain

The infinite variety of street life, the nooks and crannies of the medieval Barri Gòtic, the ceramic tile and stained glass of Art Nouveau facades, the art and music, the throb of street life, the food (ah, the food!)—one way or another, Barcelona will find a way to get your full attention. The capital of Catalonia is a banquet for the senses, with its beguiling mix of ancient and modern architecture, tempting cafés and markets, and sun-drenched Mediterranean beaches. A stroll along La Rambla and through waterfront Barceloneta, as well as a tour of Gaudí's majestic Sagrada Famíliaand his other unique creations, are part of a visit to Spain's second-largest city. Modern art museums and chic shops call for attention, too. Barcelona's vibe stays lively well into the night, when you can linger over regional wine and cuisine at buzzing tapas bars.

Day 2 Saint-Tropez, France

At first glance, it really doesn't look all that impressive. There's a pretty port with cafés charging €5 for a coffee and a picturesque old town in sugared-almond hues, but there are many prettier in the hills nearby. There are sandy beaches, rare enough on the Riviera, and old-fashioned squares with plane trees and pétanque players, but these are a dime a dozen throughout Provence. So what made St-Tropez an internationally known locale? Two words: Brigitte Bardot. When this pulpeuse (voluptuous) teenager showed up in St-Tropez on the arm of Roger Vadim in 1956 to film And God Created Woman, the heads of the world snapped around. Neither the gentle descriptions of writer Guy de Maupassant (1850–93), nor the watercolor tones of Impressionist Paul Signac (1863–1935), nor the stream of painters who followed (including Matisse and Bonnard) could focus the world's attention on this seaside hamlet as did this one sensual woman in a scarf, Ray-Bans, and capris. Vanity Fair ran a big article, "Saint Tropez Babylon," detailing the over-the-top petrodollar parties, megayachts, and Beyoncé–d paparazzi. But don't be turned off: the next year, Stewart, Tabori & Chang released an elegant coffee-table book, Houses of St-Tropez, packed with photos of supremely tasteful and pretty residences, many occupied by fashion designers, artists, and writers. Once a hangout for Colette, Anaïs Nin, and Françoise Sagan, the town still earns its old moniker, the "Montparnasse of the Mediterranean." Yet you might be surprised to find that this byword for billionaires is so small and insulated. The lack of train service, casinos, and chain hotels keeps it that way. Yet fame, in a sense, came too fast for St-Trop. Unlike the chic resorts farther east, it didn't have the decades-old reputation of the sort that would attract visitors all year around. For a good reason: its location on the south side of the gulf puts it at the mercy of the terrible mistral winter winds. So, in summer the crowds descend and the prices rise into the stratosphere. In July and August, you must be carefree about the sordid matter of cash. After all, at the most Dionysian nightclub in town, a glass of tap water goes for $37 and when the mojo really gets going, billionaires think nothing of "champagne-spraying" the partying crowds—think World Series celebrations but with $1,000 bottles of Roederer Cristal instead of Gatorade. Complaining about summer crowds, overpricing, and lack of customer service has become a tourist sport and yet this is what makes St-Tropez—described by the French daily newspaper Le Figaro as the place you can see "the greatest number of faces per square meter"—as intriguing as it is seductive.

Day 3 Livorno, Italy

Livorno is a gritty city with a long and interesting history. In the early Middle Ages it alternately belonged to Pisa and Genoa. In 1421 Florence, seeking access to the sea, bought it. Cosimo I (1519–74) started construction of the harbor in 1571, putting Livorno on the map. After Ferdinando I de' Medici (1549–1609) proclaimed Livorno a free city, it became a haven for people suffering from religious persecution; Roman Catholics from England and Jews and Moors from Spain and Portugal, among others, settled here. The Quattro Mori (Four Moors), also known as the Monument to Ferdinando I, commemorates this. (The statue of Ferdinando I dates from 1595, the bronze Moors by Pietro Tacca from the 1620s.)In the following centuries, and particularly in the 18th, Livorno boomed as a port. In the 19th century the town drew a host of famous Britons passing through on their grand tours. Its prominence continued up to World War II, when it was heavily bombed. Much of the town's architecture, therefore, postdates the war, and it's somewhat difficult to imagine what it might have looked like before. Livorno has recovered from the war, however, as it's become a huge point of departure for container ships, as well as the only spot in Tuscany for cruise ships to dock for the day.Most of Livorno's artistic treasures date from the 17th century and aren't all that interesting unless you dote on obscure baroque artists. Livorno's most famous native artist, Amedeo Modigliani (1884–1920), was of much more recent vintage. Sadly, there's no notable work by him in his hometown.There may not be much in the way of art, but it's still worth strolling around the city. The Mercato Nuovo, which has been around since 1894, sells all sorts of fruits, vegetables, grains, meat, and fish. Outdoor markets nearby are also chock-full of local color. The presence of Camp Darby, an American military base just outside town, accounts for the availability of many American products.If you have time, Livorno is worth a stop for lunch or dinner at the very least.

Day 4 Civitavecchia, Italy

Italy's vibrant capital lives in the present, but no other city on earth evokes its past so powerfully. For over 2,500 years, emperors, popes, artists, and common citizens have left their mark here. Archaeological remains from ancient Rome, art-stuffed churches, and the treasures of Vatican City vie for your attention, but Rome is also a wonderful place to practice the Italian-perfected il dolce far niente, the sweet art of idleness. Your most memorable experiences may include sitting at a caffè in the Campo de' Fiori or strolling in a beguiling piazza.

Day 5 Naples, Italy

Naples, in the Campania region, is Italy's third largest city. Its claim to fame is the spectacular location along one of the world's most splendid bays, backed by the perfect cone of Mount Vesuvius. In addition to its beautiful setting, Naples' surprises with other outstanding attractions such as the Royal Palace, San Carlos Opera House, the impressive National Archaeological Museum and the Castel Nuovo, dating from the 13th-century. The city's central area is best explored on foot. Chaotic traffic conditions make driving around the city a very frustrating experience. Naples provides a convenient starting point for trips to such favored destinations as Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius. The Isle of Capri can be reached via a 45-minute hydrofoil service. The region of Campania was home to Greeks settlers some 300 years before Rome was founded. Pompeii, too, was a Greek town before being conquered by the Romans during the 5th century BC. It was under the Romans that Pompeii flourished and grew prosperous. When Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, the population of 20,000 was wiped out, but dozens of buildings were preserved under layers of cinder more than 20 feet deep. The most important finds from Pompeii are displayed in Naples' National Archaeological Museum. A visit here will no doubt enhance a visit to ancient Pompeii.

Day 6 Messina, Italy

Home to the Museo Regionale of Messina, known for featuring two of Caravaggio's paintings, the city is also famous for having been the capital of the ancient kingdom of Sicily.

Day 7 Argostoli, Greece

Ground literally to ashes in World War II and wracked by a massive earthquake a decade later, the capital of Kefalonia once more shows pride in its native spirit and natural beauty. The vast harbor on Argostoli's east side makes an especially attractive port for cruise ships full of visitors who never seem to tire of strolling the cobbled seaside promenade, sipping ouzos in cafés, and stocking up on the succulent Mediterranean fruits in the outdoor markets.

Day 8  Cruising

Day 9 Heraklion (Iraklion), Crete, Greece

Having been controlled by Arabic, Venetian and Ottoman empires over the years - it's no surprise that Heraklion is a diverse patchwork of exotic cultures and historical treasures. Celebrated as the birthplace of the Spanish Renaissance artist, El Greco, you can visit to explore the storied ruins of the Minoan empire's capital, and unearth the rich cultural treasures that Crete's bustling modern capital has to offer.

Day 10 Mykonos, Greece

Although the fishing boats still go out in good weather, Mykonos largely makes its living from tourism these days. The summer crowds have turned one of the poorest islands in Greece into one of the richest. Old Mykonians complain that their young, who have inherited stores where their grandfathers once sold eggs or wine, get so much rent that they have lost ambition, and in summer sit around pool bars at night with their friends, and hang out in Athens in winter when island life is less scintillating. Put firmly on the map by Jackie O in the 1960s, Mykonos town—called Hora by the locals—remains the Saint-Tropez of the Greek islands. The scenery is memorable, with its whitewashed streets, Little Venice, the Kato Myli ridge of windmills, and Kastro, the town's medieval quarter. Its cubical two- or three-story houses and churches, with their red or blue doors and domes and wooden balconies, have been long celebrated as some of the best examples of classic Cycladic architecture. Luckily, the Greek Archaeological Service decided to preserve the town, even when the Mykonians would have preferred to rebuild, and so the Old Town has been impressively preserved. Pink oleander, scarlet hibiscus, and trailing green pepper trees form a contrast amid the dazzling whiteness, whose frequent renewal with whitewash is required by law. Any visitor who has the pleasure of getting lost in its narrow streets (made all the narrower by the many outdoor stone staircases, which maximize housing space in the crowded village) will appreciate how its confusing layout was designed to foil pirates—if it was designed at all. After Mykonos fell under Turkish rule in 1537, the Ottomans allowed the islanders to arm their vessels against pirates, which had a contradictory effect: many of them found that raiding other islands was more profitable than tilling arid land. At the height of Aegean piracy, Mykonos was the principal headquarters of the corsair fleets—the place where pirates met their fellows, found willing women, and filled out their crews. Eventually the illicit activity evolved into a legitimate and thriving trade network. Morning on Mykonos town's main quay is busy with deliveries, visitors for the Delos boats, lazy breakfasters, and street cleaners dealing with the previous night's mess. In late morning the cruise-boat people arrive, and the shops are all open. In early afternoon, shaded outdoor tavernas are full of diners eating salads (Mykonos's produce is mostly imported); music is absent or kept low. In mid- and late afternoon, the town feels sleepy, since so many people are at the beach, on excursions, or sleeping in their air-conditioned rooms; even some tourist shops close for siesta. By sunset, people have come back from the beach, having taken their showers and rested. At night, the atmosphere in Mykonos ramps up. The cruise-boat people are mostly gone, coughing three-wheelers make no deliveries in the narrow streets, and everyone is dressed sexy for summer and starting to shimmy with the scene. Many shops stay open past midnight, the restaurants fill up, and the bars and discos make ice cubes as fast as they can. Ready to dive in? Begin your tour of Mykonos town (Hora) by starting out at its heart: Mando Mavrogenous Square.

Day 11 Piraeus, Greece

It's no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense. Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are close to the modern city center. You can easily walk from the Acropolis to many other key sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. From many quarters of the city you can glimpse "the glory that was Greece" in the form of the Acropolis looming above the horizon, but only by actually climbing that rocky precipice can you feel the impact of the ancient settlement. The Acropolis and Filopappou, two craggy hills sitting side by side; the ancient Agora (marketplace); and Kerameikos, the first cemetery, form the core of ancient and Roman Athens. Along the Unification of Archaeological Sites promenade, you can follow stone-paved, tree-lined walkways from site to site, undisturbed by traffic. Cars have also been banned or reduced in other streets in the historical center. In the National Archaeological Museum, vast numbers of artifacts illustrate the many millennia of Greek civilization; smaller museums such as the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum illuminate the history of particular regions or periods. Athens may seem like one huge city, but it is really a conglomeration of neighborhoods with distinctive characters. The Eastern influences that prevailed during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire are still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the foot of the Acropolis. On the northern slope of the Acropolis, stroll through Plaka (if possible by moonlight), an area of tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions, to get the flavor of the 19th-century's gracious lifestyle. The narrow lanes of Anafiotika, a section of Plaka, thread past tiny churches and small, color-washed houses with wooden upper stories, recalling a Cycladic island village. In this maze of winding streets, vestiges of the older city are everywhere: crumbling stairways lined with festive tavernas; dank cellars filled with wine vats; occasionally a court or diminutive garden, enclosed within high walls and filled with magnolia trees and the flaming trumpet-shaped flowers of hibiscus bushes. Formerly run-down old quarters, such as Thission, Gazi and Psirri, popular nightlife areas filled with bars and mezedopoleia (similar to tapas bars), are now in the process of gentrification, although they still retain much of their original charm, as does the colorful produce and meat market on Athinas. The area around Syntagma Square, the tourist hub, and Omonia Square, the commercial heart of the city about 1 km (½ mi) northwest, is distinctly European, having been designed by the court architects of King Otho, a Bavarian, in the 19th century. The chic shops and bistros of ritzy Kolonaki nestle at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus, Athens's highest hill (909 feet). Each of Athens's outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: in the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, once a summer resort for aristocratic Athenians, and in the south and southeast lie Glyfada, Voula, and Vouliagmeni, with their sandy beaches, seaside bars, and lively summer nightlife. Just beyond the city's southern fringes is Piraeus, a bustling port city of waterside fish tavernas and Saronic Gulf views.

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